Ryobi Router R1801M User Guide

Your new router has been engineered and manufactured to our Ryobi’s high standard for dependability, ease of  
operation, and operator safety. When properly cared for, the router will give you years of rugged, trouble-free  
performance.  
To reduce the risk of injury, the user must read and understand the operator’s manual before using this product.  
Thank you for buying a Ryobi product.  
 
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Carrying tools with your finger on the switch or  
plugging in tools that have the switch on, invites accidents.  
Failure to  
follow all instructions listed below, may result in elec-  
tric shock, fire and/or serious personal injury.  
A wrench or a key that is left attached to a  
rotating part of the tool may result in personal injury.  
Proper footing and balance enables better  
control of the tool in unexpected situations.  
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Cluttered  
Dust mask, non-skid safety shoes, hard hat, or hearing  
protection must be used for appropriate conditions.  
benches and dark areas invite accidents.  
Power tools create sparks  
which may ignite the dust or fumes.  
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Distractions can cause you to  
lose control.  
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Holding  
the work by hand or against your body is unstable and  
may lead to loss of control.  
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The correct tool will do the job better and  
safer at the rate for which it is designed.  
Double insulation  
for the three-wire grounded power cord and grounded  
power supply system.  
eliminates the need  
Any tool that cannot be controlled with the switch is  
dangerous and must be repaired.  
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There is an  
increased risk of electric shock if your body is grounded.  
Such preventive safety measures  
reduce the risk of starting the tool accidentally.  
Water entering a power tool will increase the risk of elec-  
tric shock.  
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Tools are dangerous in the hands of  
untrained users.  
Properly maintained tools with sharp cutting  
edges are less likely to bind and are easier to control.  
Damaged cords  
increase the risk of electric shock.  
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These cords are  
rated for outdoor use and reduce the risk of electric shock.  
Many accidents are caused by  
poorly maintained tools.  
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Accessories that may  
be suitable for one tool, may become hazardous when  
used on another tool.  
A moment of inatten-  
tion while operating power tools may result in serious  
personal injury.  
Always use a clean cloth when  
cleaning. Never use brake fluids, gasoline, petroleum-  
based products, or any strong solvents to clean your  
tool. Following this rule will reduce the risk of loss of  
control and deterioration of the enclosure plastic.  
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Loose clothes,  
jewelry, or long hair can be caught in moving parts.  
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Use of unauthorized parts or  
failure to follow Maintenance Instructions may create a  
risk of electric shock or injury.  
Service or maintenance performed  
by unqualified personnel could result in a risk of injury.  
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Contact with a “live” wire will make exposed metal parts of the tool “live” and shock the  
operator.  
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Following this rule will reduce the risk of electric  
shock, fire, or serious injury.  
An undersized cord will cause a drop in line  
voltage resulting in loss of power and overheating.  
Following this rule will reduce the risk  
of serious personal injury.  
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Following this rule will reduce the risk of  
serious personal injury.  
Following this rule will reduce the  
risk of serious personal injury.  
Following this  
rule will reduce the risk of serious personal injury.  
Following this rule will reduce the risk of  
electric shock, fire, or serious personal injury.  
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Following this rule will reduce the risk of electric shock  
or fire.  
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Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grind-  
ing, drilling, and other construction activities contains  
chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or  
other reproductive harm. Some examples of these  
chemicals are:  
lead from lead-based paints,  
crystalline silica from bricks and cement and  
other masonry products, and  
arsenic and chromium from chemically-treated  
lumber.  
Following this rule will reduce the risk  
of shock, fire, or serious injury.  
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Your risk from these exposures varies, depending  
on how often you do this type of work. To reduce  
your exposure to these chemicals:work in a well ven-  
tilated area, and work with approved safety equip-  
ment, such as those dust masks that are specially  
designed to filter out microscopic particles.  
Follow-  
ing this rule will reduce the risk of electric shock or fire.  
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Some of the following symbols may be used on your tool. Please study them and learn their meaning. Proper  
interpretation of these symbols will allow you to operate the tool better and safer.  
V
A
Volts  
Voltage  
Amperes  
Current  
Hz  
W
Hertz  
Frequency (cycles per second)  
Power  
Watt  
min  
Minutes  
Time  
Alternating Current  
No Load Speed  
Class II Construction  
Per Minute  
Safety Alert  
Wear Eye Protection  
Type of current  
n0  
Rotational speed, at no load  
Double-insulated construction  
Revolutions, strokes, surface speed, orbits, etc. per minute  
Precautions that involve your safety  
.../min  
Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses with side  
shields and full face shield when operating this product  
Wet Conditions Alert  
Do not expose to rain or use in damp locations  
The purpose of safety symbols is to attract your attention to possible dangers. The safety symbols, and the explanations  
with them, deserve your careful attention and understanding. The safety warnings do not by themselves eliminate any  
danger. The instructions or warnings they give are not substitutes for proper accident prevention measures.  
Indicates an imminently hazardous situation which, if not avoided, will result in death or serious  
injury.  
Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in death or  
serious injury.  
Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or  
moderate injury. It may also be used to alert against unsafe practices that may cause property damage.  
Advises you of information or instructions vital to the operation or maintenance of the  
equipment.  
Advises you of additional information concerning the operation or maintenance of the equipment.  
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Double insulation is a concept in safety in electric power  
tools, which eliminates the need for the usual three-wire  
grounded power cord. All exposed metal parts are  
isolated from the internal metal motor components with  
protecting insulation. Double insulated tools do not need  
to be grounded.  
When using a power tool at a considerable distance from  
a power source, be sure to use an extension cord that  
has the capacity to handle the current the tool will draw.  
An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage,  
resulting in overheating and loss of power. Use the chart  
to determine the minimum wire size required in an  
extension cord. Only round jacketed cords listed by  
Underwriter’s Laboratories (UL) should be used.  
Servicing of a tool with double insulation  
requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and  
should be performed only by a qualified service  
technician. For service, we suggest you return the tool to  
your nearest authorized service center for repair. When  
servicing, use only identical Ryobi replacement parts.  
When working outdoors with a tool, use an extension  
cord that is designed for outside use. This type of cord is  
designated with “WA” on the cord’s jacket.  
Before using any extension cord, inspect it for loose or  
exposed wires and cut or worn insulation.  
The double insulated system is intended to protect  
the user from shock resulting from a break in the  
tool's internal wiring. Observe all normal safety pre-  
cautions related to avoiding electrical shock.  
**Ampere rating (on tool faceplate)  
0-2.0  
2.1-3.4  
3.5-5.0  
5.1-7.0  
7.1-12.0 12.1-16.0  
25'  
50'  
16 16  
16 16  
16 16  
16 16  
16 14  
14 12  
14 14  
14 12  
The router has a precision built electric motor. It should  
be connected to a power supply that is 120 volts, 60 Hz,  
AC only (normal household current). Do not operate this  
tool on direct current (DC). A substantial voltage drop will  
cause a loss of power and the motor will overheat. If your  
tool does not operate when plugged into an outlet,  
double-check the power supply.  
100'  
10  
**Used on 12 gauge - 20 amp circuit.  
Keep the extension cord clear of the working area.  
Position the cord so that it will not get caught on lum-  
ber, tools or other obstructions while you are working  
with a power tool. Failure to do so can result in seri-  
ous personal injury.  
Check extension cords before each use. If damaged  
replace them immediately. Never use tool with a dam-  
aged cord with this tool. Touching the damaged area  
could cause serious injury due to electrical shock.  
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Depth of Cut ....................................................................................................................................0 - 1-1/2 in. (0 - 38 mm)  
Collet .............................................................................................................................................................. 1/4 in. (6 mm)  
Peak Horsepower ........................................................................................................................................................ 1-1/2  
Ampere ................................................................................................................................................................. 8.5 Amps  
Input ............................................................................................................................................ 120 Volts, 60 Hz, AC only  
No Load Speed ...................................................................................................................................................25,000/min  
Power Cord ......................................................................................................................................................... 10 ft. (3 m)  
Net Weight .....................................................................................................................................................7 lbs. (3.2 kg.)  
Before using this tool, familiarize yourself with all operat-  
ing features and safety requirements. However, do not let  
familiarity with the tool make you careless.  
The design of this tool provides for easy handling. It is  
designed for comfort and ease of grasp when operating  
in different positions and at different angles.  
This new router is equipped with the following features.  
See Figure 1.  
Your router has a precision built electric motor.  
The router kit has a powerful 8.5 amp motor with  
sufficient power to handle tough routing jobs. It delivers  
1-1/2 peak horsepower for heavy duty performance.  
Do not  
operate this tool on direct current (DC). A substantial  
voltage drop will cause a loss of power and overheating.  
If your tool does not operate when plugged into an outlet,  
double-check the power supply.  
The router has a conveniently located rocker switch.  
The spindle lock secures the spindle so that you only  
need one wrench to loosen the collet nut and change  
cutters.  
Double insulation is a concept in safety in electric power  
tools, which eliminates the need for the usual three-wire  
grounded power cord. All exposed metal parts are  
isolated from the internal metal motor components with  
protecting insulation. Double insulated tools do not need  
to be grounded.  
The depth adjusting ring allows you to adjust the depth of  
cut.  
The locking arm secures the motor housing in the base.  
A plastic chip shield on the base of the router provides  
protection against flying dust and chips.  
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SWITCH  
LOCKING  
ARM  
DEPTH  
ADJUSTMENT  
RING  
SPINDLE  
LOCK  
BUTTON  
HANDLE  
CHIP SHIELD  
Fig. 1  
When unpacking the tool:  
If any parts are missing do not operate the tool until  
the missing parts are replaced. Failure to do so could  
result in possible serious personal injury.  
I Carefully remove the tool and accessories from the box.  
I Make sure that all items listed in the packing list are in-  
cluded.  
I Inspect the tool carefully to make sure no breakage or  
damage occurred during shipping.  
I Do not discard the packing material until you have care-  
The tool should never be connected to a power sup-  
ply when you are assembling parts, making adjust-  
ments, cleaning, performing maintenance, or when  
the tool is not in use. Disconnecting the tool will pre-  
vent accidental starting that could cause injury.  
fully inspected and satisfactorily operated the tool.  
I If any parts are damaged or missing, please call  
1-800-525-2579 for assistance.  
Router  
Router Base  
Collet Wrench  
Tool Bag  
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Exercise caution when using this tool. Careless ac-  
tions, for even a fraction of a second, can result in  
serious personal injury.  
ON  
You may use the router for the purposes listed below:  
I Routing Grooves, shaping edges, etc. in wood.  
I Chamfering, rabbeting, dadoing, and dovetailing in wood.  
I Routing edges on plastic laminates.  
OFF  
Fig. 2  
Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses with  
side shields when using your router. Failure to do so  
could result in dust, shavings, chips, loose particles,  
or foreign objects being thrown in your eyes result-  
ing in possible serious injury.If the operation is dusty,  
also wear a face or dust mask.  
See Figure 2.  
I To turn on the router: Toggle the switch to the position.  
I To turn off the router: Toggle the switch to the position.  
See Figure 3.  
Fig. 3  
Follow these steps to operate the router.  
1. Unplug the router.  
Never place the router down on a work surface be-  
fore the cutter stops.  
Failure to unplug the tool could result in accidental  
starting causing serious injury.  
2. Securely tighten the cutter in the collet nut. Refer to  
“Removing/Inserting Cutters” later in this manual.  
3. Set the desired depth of cut. Refer to “Adjusting Depth  
of Cut” later in this manual.  
4. Secure the workpiece.  
5. Plug the router into a power source.  
6. Hold the router firmly with both hands.  
7. Turn on the router and let the motor build to its full  
speed.  
8. Feed the cutter slowly into the workpiece.  
Do not let the cutter contact the workpiece before  
starting the router and allowing it to develop full speed.  
9. Turn off the router upon completion of cut, and let the  
motor come to a complete stop before removing the  
router from the workpiece.  
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Never connect the router to power supply when you  
are assembling parts, making adjustments, install-  
ing or removing cutters, or when not in use. Discon-  
necting the router prevents accidental starting that  
could cause serious injury.  
See Figure 4.  
1. Unplug the router.  
LOCKING  
ARM  
DEPTH  
ADJUSTMENT  
RING  
Failure to unplug the tool could result in accidental  
starting causing serious injury.  
2. Place the router upside down with the Ryobi label  
away from you.  
3. Loosen the locking arm on the base.  
SPINDLE  
LOCK  
BUTTON  
4. Depress and hold the spindle lock button on the motor.  
5. Turn the collet nut until the hole in the collet aligns with  
the spindle lock button.  
6. Turn the depth adjusting ring counterclockwise until  
the motor is to its highest position.  
INDICATOR  
ARROW  
7. Align the indicator arrow on the depth adjustment ring  
with the indicator point on the base.  
8. Pull the base until it dislodges from the motor housing.  
1/32  
1. Unplug the router.  
0
1
2
2. Place the fixed base on a flat surface.  
3. Loosen the locking arm.  
15/32  
DEPTH  
INDICATOR  
RING  
4. Align the indicator arrow on the depth adjustment ring  
with the indicator point on the base.  
5. Align the spindle lock button with the groove in the  
base.  
INDICATOR POINT  
Fig. 4  
6. Depress and hold the spindle lock button on the motor.  
7. Slide the motor housing into the base.  
8. Turn the depth adjusting ring counterclockwise until  
the spindle lock snaps out as it clears the rear window,  
just below the locking arm.  
9. Tighten the locking arm.  
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11  
Proper depth of cut depends on several factors: the peak  
horsepower of the router motor, the type of cutter, and  
the type of wood. A lightweight, low horsepower router is  
designed for making shallow cuts. A router with a high  
horsepower rating can safely cut deeper. Small cutters,  
such as veining bits with 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) cutting  
diameters, are designed to remove only small amounts of  
wood. Large cutters, such as straight-flute bits, are made  
to remove larger amounts of wood. You can make deeper  
cuts in soft woods, such as white pine, than in  
hardwoods, like oak or maple.  
LOCKING  
ARM  
Based on these considerations, choose a depth of cut  
that will not place excessive strain on the router motor. If  
you find that extra force is needed or that the motor  
speed slows down considerably, turn off the router and  
reduce the depth of cut. Then, make the cut in two or  
more passes.  
Fig. 6  
DEPTH  
ADJUSTMENT  
RING  
When routing a groove that is too deep to safely cut in  
one pass, it is best to make the cut in several passes. We  
recommend that cuts be made at a depth not exceeding  
1/8 in. (3.2 mm) and that several passes be made to  
reach deeper cuts.  
Adjusting the depth of cut for the plunge router is different  
from adjusting the depth of cut for the fixed router.  
See Figures 6 and 7.  
INDICATOR  
ARROW  
Follow these steps to adjust depth of cut for fixed routers.  
1. Unplug the router.  
1/32  
0
1
2
Failure to unplug the tool could result in accidental  
starting causing serious injury.  
DEPTH  
INDICATOR  
RING  
15/32  
2. Place the router on a flat surface.  
3. Loosen the locking arm.  
INDICATOR POINT  
Fig. 7  
4. Turn the depth adjusting ring counterclockwise until  
the tip of the cutter touches the flat surface.  
5. Turn the depth indicator ring until the zero lines up with  
the indicator point on the base.  
6. Position the router so that the cutter can extend below  
the subbase for desired depth of cut.  
7. Turn the depth adjusting ring to obtain the desired  
depth of cut.  
8. Tighten the locking arm securely.  
To adjust the depth of cut when the router is  
mounted to a router table, turn the depth adjustment  
ring until the cutter reaches the desired depth of cut.  
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5
6
The “secret” of professional routing and edge shaping  
lies in making a careful set-up for the cut and in selecting  
the proper rate of feed.  
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See Figure 8.  
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PROPER CUTTING SEQUENCE  
When routing, the cutter rotates clockwise. Therefore,  
you should feed the router into the workpiece from left to  
right. When you feed the router from left to right, the  
rotation of the cutter pulls the router against the  
workpiece. If you feed the router in the opposite direction,  
the rotational forces of the spinning bit tend to throw the  
router away from the workpiece. This action could cause  
you to lose control of the router.  
8
7
1/4 in. to 1 in.  
(6.35 mm to 25.4 mm)  
The router motor and bit revolve in a clockwise direction.  
This gives the tool a slight tendency to twist in a  
counterclockwise direction, especially when the motor  
revs up.  
Fig. 8  
GUIDE OUTSIDE  
Because of the extremely high speed of bit rotation  
during a proper feeding operation, there is very little  
kickback to contend with under normal conditions.  
However, if the bit strikes a knot, hard grain, foreign  
object, etc. that affects the normal progress of the cutting  
action, there will be a slight kickback. This kickback is  
sufficient to spoil the trueness of your cut if you are not  
prepared. Such a kickback is always in the direction  
opposite to the direction of bit rotation.  
BIT ROTATION  
THRUST  
GUIDE  
FEED  
To guard against such a kickback, plan your setup and  
direction of feed so that you will always be thrusting the  
tool—to hold it against whatever you are using to guide  
the cut—in the same direction that the leading edge of  
the bit is moving. In short, the thrust should be in a  
direction that keeps the sharp edges of the bit  
GUIDE INSIDE  
GUIDE  
continuously biting straight into new (uncut) wood.  
BIT ROTATION  
See Figure 9.  
FEED  
Whenever you are routing a groove, your travel should be  
in a direction that places whatever guide you are using at  
the right-hand side. That is, when the guide is positioned  
as shown in the first part of the figure, tool travel should  
be from left to right and counterclockwise around curves.  
When the guide is positioned as shown in the second  
part of the figure, tool travel should be right to left and  
clockwise around curves. If there is a choice, the first  
setup is generally the easiest to use. In either case, the  
sideways thrust you use is against the guide.  
Fig. 9  
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The proper rate of feed depends on several factors: the  
hardness and moisture content of the wood, the depth of  
cut, and the cutting diameter of the bit. When cutting  
shallow grooves in soft woods such as pine, a faster rate  
of feed can be used. When making deep cuts in  
hardwoods such as oak, a slower rate of feed should be  
used.  
TOO FAST  
The best rate of feed is one that does not slow down the  
router motor more than one-third of its no-load speed. If  
the router is fed too fast, it will take large chips out of the  
wood and leave gouge marks. If the router is fed too slow,  
it will scorch or burn the wood.  
Fig. 10  
Feeding Too Fast  
See Figure 10.  
Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done  
only when the bit is revolving at a relatively high speed  
and is taking very small bites to produce tiny, cleanly  
severed chips. If your router is forced to move forward too  
fast, the RPM of the bit becomes slower than normal in  
relation to its forward movement. As a result, the bit must  
take bigger bites as it revolves. “Bigger bites” mean  
bigger chips, and a rougher finish. Bigger chips also  
require more power, which could result in the router  
motor becoming overloaded.  
TOO SLOW  
Fig. 11  
Feeding Too Slow  
See Figure 11.  
It is also possible to spoil a cut by moving the router  
forward too slowly. When it is advanced into the work too  
slowly, a revolving bit does not dig into new wood fast  
enough to take a bite; instead, it simply scrapes away  
sawdust-like particles. Scraping produces heat, which can  
glaze, burn, or mar the cut and in extreme cases, can  
even overheat the bit so as to destroy its hardness.  
Under extreme force-feeding conditions the relative RPM  
of the bit can become so slow—and the bites it has to  
take so large — that chips will be partially knocked off  
(rather than fully cut off), resulting in splintering and  
gouging of the workpiece.  
Your router is an extremely high-speed tool (25,000 RPM  
no-load speed), and will make clean, smooth cuts if  
allowed to run freely without the overload of a forced (too  
fast) feed. Three things that cause “force feeding” are bit  
size, depth-of-cut, and workpiece characteristics. The  
larger the bit or the deeper the cut, the more slowly the  
router should be advanced. If the wood is very hard,  
knotty, gummy or damp, the operation must be slowed  
still more.  
In addition, it is more difficult to control a router when the  
bit is scraping instead of cutting. With practically no load  
on the motor the bit will be revolving at close to top RPM,  
and will have a much greater than normal tendency to  
bounce off the sides of the cut (especially if the wood has  
a pronounced grain with hard and soft areas). As a result,  
the cut produced may have rippled, instead of straight  
sides.  
You can always detect “force feeding” by the sound of the  
motor. Its high-pitched whine will sound lower and  
stronger as it loses speed. Also, the strain of holding the  
tool will be noticeably increased.  
“Too-slow feeding” can also cause your router to take off  
in a wrong direction from the intended line of cut.  
You can detect “too-slow feeding” by the runaway, high-  
pitched sound of the motor; or by feeling the “wiggle” of  
the bit in the cut.  
14  
 
See Figure 12.  
DEPTH  
OF CUT  
As previously mentioned, the depth of cut is important  
because it affects the rate of feed that, in turn, affects the  
quality of the cut (and, also, the possibility of damage to  
your router motor and bit). A deep cut requires a slower  
feed than a shallow one, and a too deep cut will cause  
you to slow the feed so much that the bit is no longer  
cutting, it is scraping, instead.  
WIDTH  
OF CUT  
Making a deep cut is never advisable. The smaller bits —  
especially those only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) in diameter —  
are easily broken off when subjected to too much side  
thrust. A large enough bit may not be broken, but if the  
cut is too deep a rough cut will result — and it may be  
very difficult to guide and control the bit as desired. For  
these reasons, we recommend that you do not exceed  
1/8 in. depth of cut in a single pass, regardless of the  
bit size or the softness or condition of the workpiece.  
2ND.  
PASS  
1ST.  
PASS  
1ST.  
PASS  
2ND.  
PASS  
To make deeper cuts it is therefore necessary to make as  
many successive passes as required, lowering the bit 1/8  
in. for each new pass. In order to save time, do all the  
cutting necessary at one depth setting, before lowering  
the bit for the next pass. This will also assure a uniform  
depth when the final pass is completed.  
Fig. 12  
Your router is a versatile tool and can be used for many  
different applications. You may rout grooves, carve  
designs using a template, carve designs by freehand,  
taper table and chair legs, mortise door jambs, or create  
joints.  
See Figure 13.  
When routing across the face of boards, set router at  
desired depth of cut, place the edge of router base  
against workpiece, and turn on the router. Slowly feed  
the cutter into the workpiece along desired line of cut.  
If desired depth of cut is greater than can be safely  
cut in one pass, make cuts in two or more passes.  
Fig. 13  
When routing straight cuts across stock, clamp a straight  
edge to the workpiece to use as a guide. Position the  
straightedge parallel to the line of cut and offset the  
distance between the cutting edge of the cutter and the  
edge of the router base. Hold the router base against the  
straightedge and rout the groove.  
15  
 
When routing a groove wider than the diameter of the  
cutter, clamp a straightedge on both sides of the cutlines.  
Position both guides parallel to the desired line of cut and  
spaced equal distances from the desired edges of the  
groove. Rout along one guide; then, reverse direction and  
rout along the other guide. Clean out any remaining waste  
in the center of the groove freehand.  
See Figure 14.  
When used freehand, your router becomes a flexible and  
versatile tool. This flexibility makes it possible to easily  
rout signs, relief sculptures, etc.  
There are two basic techniques for freehand routing:  
I Routing letters, grooves, and patterns into wood.  
I Routing out the background, leaving the letters or  
pattern raised above the surface.  
When freehand routing, we suggest the following:  
I Draw or layout the pattern on workpiece.  
I Choose the appropriate cutter.  
A core box or V-groove bit is often used for  
routing letters and engraving objects. Straight bits and  
ball mills are often used to make relief carvings.  
Veining bits are used to carve small, intricate details.  
Fig. 14  
I Rout the pattern in two or more passes. Make the first  
pass at 25% of the desired depth of cut. This will  
provide better control as well as being a guide for the  
next pass.  
Do not rout deeper than 1/8 in. per pass.  
Do not use large router bits for freehand routing.  
Use of large router bits when freehand routing  
could cause loss of control or create other hazard-  
ous conditions that could cause possible serious  
personal injury. When using a router table, large  
router bits should be used for edging only. Do not  
use router bits that are larger in diameter than the  
opening in router subbase for any purpose.  
16  
 
ROUTER  
See Figure 15.  
You can cut rabbets and molded edges using piloted  
cutters. The pilot, which extends below the cutter, allows  
the cutter to turn while the pilot follows the edge of the  
workpiece. Some pilots are solid extensions of the cutter.  
Others are ball bearing guides that are fastened to the  
end of the cutter.  
PILOT  
Arbor-type bits with pilots are excellent for quick, easy  
edge shaping. They follow workpiece edges that are  
either straight or curved. The pilot prevents the bit from  
making too deep a cut. Holding the pilot firmly in contact  
with the workpiece edge throughout the cut prevents the  
cut from becoming too shallow.  
WORK  
TOP EDGE SHAPING  
ROUTER  
Whenever the workpiece thickness together with the  
desired depth of cut (as adjusted by router depth setting)  
are such that only the top part of the edge is to be  
shaped (leaving at least a 1/16 inch [1.6 mm] thick uncut  
portion at bottom), the pilot can ride against the uncut  
portion, which serves to guide it. However, if the  
workpiece is too thin or the bit is set so low that there will  
be no uncut edge to ride the pilot against, an extra board  
must be placed under the workpiece to act as a guide.  
This guide board must have exactly the same contour —  
straight or curved — as the workpiece edge. If the guide  
is positioned so that its edge is flush with the workpiece  
edge, the bit will make a full cut (in as far as the bit  
radius). On the other hand, if the guide is positioned as  
shown (out from the workpiece edge), the bit will make  
less than a full cut — which will alter the shape of the  
finished edge.  
WORK  
PILOT  
GUIDE  
WHOLE EDGE SHAPING  
Fig. 15  
When edge shaping with guides, you can use any  
of the piloted bits without a pilot. The size (diameter) of  
the pilot determines the maximum cut width that you can  
make with the pilot against the workpiece edge. The  
small pilot exposes all of the bit; the large one reduces  
this amount by 1/16 inch (1.6 mm).  
When routing all edges of a panel or board, rout the end  
grain first. Any splintering that occurs at the corners will  
then be removed when routing the sides. Start each side  
1/4 in. (6.35 mm) away from the end. Feed the cutter into  
the wood until the pilot contacts the uncut edge. Then,  
slowly back the router to shape the corner. Next, move  
the router forward to shape the rest of the edge. Be  
careful to keep the pilot pressed against the uncut edge.  
Repeat this procedure on each side of the panel. Figure  
20 shows the proper sequence of cuts to make when  
edge routing four sides of a panel.  
17  
 
When servicing use only identical Ryobi replacement parts. Use of any other parts may create a hazard or cause  
product damage.  
Avoid using solvents when cleaning plastic parts. Most  
plastics are susceptible to damage from various types of  
commercial solvents and may be damaged by their use.  
Use clean cloths to remove dirt, carbon dust, etc.  
All of the bearings in this tool are lubricated with a  
sufficient amount of high grade lubricant for the life of the  
unit under normal operating conditions. Therefore, no  
further lubrication is required.  
Get faster and more accurate cutting results by keeping  
cutters clean and sharp. Remove all accumulated pitch  
and gum from cutters after each use.  
Do not at any time let brake fluids, gasoline, petro-  
leum-based products, penetrating oils, etc. come in  
contact with plastic parts.They contain chemicals that  
can damage, weaken, or destroy plastic.  
When sharpening cutters, sharpen only the inside of the  
cutting edge. Never grind the outside diameter. Be sure  
when sharpening the end of a cutter to grind the  
clearance angle the same as originally ground.  
Electric tools used on fiberglass material, wallboard,  
spackling compounds, or plaster are subject to  
accelerated wear and possible premature failure, as the  
fiberglass chips and grindings are highly abrasive to  
bearings, brushes, commutators, etc. Consequently, we  
do not recommended that this tool be used for extended  
work on these types of materials. If, however, you do  
work with any of these materials, it is extremely important  
that you clean the tool frequently by blowing it with an air  
jet.  
Dust and chips may collect on the collet from time to time,  
making it necessary to clean the collet. To do so, remove  
the collet assembly and wipe it with a clean dry rag.  
Clean the taper in the shaft in the same manner. Never  
immerse the collet or end of the shaft in a solvent or in  
water. Before replacing the collet assembly, put a drop of  
SAE30 motor oil on the inside of the nut, on the threads  
of the shaft, and on the taper in the shaft. Replace the  
collet assembly onto the shaft by hand only. Never  
tighten the collet nut without a bit in the collet. This action  
could permanently damage the collet.  
Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses with  
side shields during power tool operation or when  
blowing dust. If operation is dusty, also wear a dust  
mask.  
The following recommended accessories are currently  
available.  
The use of attachments or accessories not listed  
could be hazardous.  
Template ........................................................... 4070177  
Edge Guide ....................................................... 6090080  
18  
 
19  
 
• SERVICE  
Now that you have purchased your tool, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service,  
simply contact your nearest Ryobi Authorized Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent  
facts when you call or visit. Please call 1-800-525-2579 for your nearest Ryobi Authorized  
of Authorized Service Centers.  
• MODEL NO. AND SERIAL NO.  
The model number of this tool will be found on a plate attached to the motor housing.  
Please record the model number and serial number in the space provided below.  
• HOW TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS  
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS,  
ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:  
• MODEL NUMBER  
• SERIAL NUMBER  
1428 Pearman Dairy Road  
Post Office Box 1207  
Anderson, SC 29625  
Anderson, SC 29622  
Phone 1-800-525-2579  
983000-165  
8-03  
 

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